An Ode to Kalamkari
Cushions: Studio Kahaani
Of the many gifts my mother has passed on to us, one of the most enduring ones is her love and knowledge of Indian handlooms. Her life and studies had her crisscrossing the country of her birth from a young age, and absorbing everything from the various languages to the range of food and artisanal traditions. India is a country, as we know it today, but historically and culturally it is part of a vast region that is at once culturally cohesive yet totally varied.
The foods, languages, and handlooms of my childhood were just as varied as a result. Nevertheless, I have a deep affection and connection to the textiles and traditions linked to my parents’ South Indian backgrounds. My father’s roots are from a part of Andhra Pradesh around the Godavari and Krishna rivers delta, where they meet the Bay of Bengal. It is a storied region - culturally, economically, and personally. As a child, our summer travels took me to cities and towns throughout the area, taking in the smells and tastes, the joyful reunions and remembered losses. All passed on through long family visits filled with stories, and long train rides filled with silent scenery.
Andhra Pradesh is also known for its exceptional textiles. Kalamkari is a traditional block-printed fabric from Andhra Pradesh, in South India. One of the hubs of Kalamkari is the Machalipatnam region, along the Krishna River. The regions origins can be traced as far back as the third century BC, when it was part of the Silk Route, hence the belief that the technique has origins in Persia. It quickly enjoyed widespread popularity - from being sought after by Mughal royalty to being exported to Europe as chintz. Kalamkari was originally hand-drawn (kalam meaning reed or pen), depicting mythological stories or botanical patterns, and the block print elements were incorporated over time. The combination of these techniques and the vibrant vegetable dyes create a distinctive, imperfect result that is emblematic of true Kalamkari.
Kalamkari fabric production is a lengthy process that involves dedicated workmanship from skilled artisans - using cotton that is handloomed, designing and readying the block patterns, preparing vegetable dyes that are variable depending on annual crops and weather, multiple stages of dyeing and printing and drying, numerous natural washes and treatments to allow for colour retention. Like many traditional crafts and art forms, its beauty lies as much in the aesthetics as in the story behind them.
For me, Kalamkari tells many stories of its provenance and historic origins, but also of the earth and water and flora that have birthed and fed and reclaimed those who came before me. Stories that capture the vibrancy of nature, as well as the legacies of generations. I find beauty in the imperfections and variations, and joy in the process of sourcing these authentic fabrics and sharing them with you through my designs. I hope their journey continues to unfold as they soon find their way to your homes.
Cushions: Studio Kahaani
